Meet the Togolese Fashion Designer Fallylah Nyny Ryke Goungou
In the bustling world of fashion, creativity weaves together the threads of culture and individuality. From this world emerges Fallylah Nyny Ryke Goungou, a talented and visionary fashion designer with roots in Togo, whose upbringing in Italy adds an enchanting charm to her unique fusion of styles. She brings to life collections that not only tell her story but also bridge the gap between continents, inspiring a new generation of fashion enthusiasts to embrace their roots while embracing the world with open arms.
Fallylah N R Goungou
Founder & Creative Director of the brand "Nyny Ryke"
Togo's landscape, with its lush green forests, rolling hills, and vibrant cultural heritage, provided Fallylah Nyny Ryke Goungou with a rich tapestry of colors and textures that influenced her creative expression. In contrast, Italy's timeless elegance, magnificent art, and refined aesthetics nurtured her artistic sensibilities, inspiring her designs with a touch of sophistication and grace.
“I'm very attached to Italy because, obviously, I grew up there and my family is there. However, when you have some roots within you, they never leave you. I still somehow feel connected to my Togolese heritage and the African continent. My fashion project is a reflection of my tradition and Western culture. The fabrics come from Africa but my style and my mind are more European.” - adds Fallylah.
Fallylah pursued her studies in Fashion and Textile Design in Milan, as well as Art and Graphic Design in Varese. Now based in London, she develops her clothing brand, Nyny Ryke. Around 80% of the fabrics used in her collections are made in Togo. They are not printed; instead, they are woven on the loom. In Africa, there exists a special and profound connection between people and textiles. This close bond, where clothes become symbolic extensions of everyday life, gives rise to a powerful metaphorical element that is integral to various indigenous practices. For instance, Yoruba herbalists would utilize small pieces of hand-woven cloth as a crucial ingredient in crafting amulets.
Fallylah incorporates various handicraft techniques popular in West Africa, emphasizing the significant role of local artisans in the production of her clothes. Among them, you can find the Akwete textiles made by the Igbo women of Nigeria, Aso Oke - handwoven cloth by the Yoruba people, and Ghanaian fabric kente. She also uses techniques from abroad that have set firm roots in West Africa, including Indonesian Batik dying, which was introduced to West Africa in the 19th century by Dutch and English merchants. Nyny Ryke’s designs use these fabrics and techniques to showcase vibrant colors, captivating geometric patterns, and bold combinations such as daring pairings of red with pink, resulting in eye-catching and expressive creations.
Join me as I delve into the captivating journey of Fallylah Nyny Ryke Goungou, exploring how her cultural heritage and international experiences have shaped her artistic vision.
What is your definition of fashion?
Fashion is like a blank canvas that I can paint. I studied fashion as my means of expression. As a dancer, I used to wear tights, but they would often get damaged and torn. I would either recycle them and create a very trendy top instead of throwing them away. I was born with a creative mind, perhaps influenced by my father, who was an artist painter, and my mother, who always had a passion for fashion.
In my daily life, I may appear serious, but when it comes to fashion and creativity, I allow myself to break free. Initially, my mother advised me to pursue more prêt-à-porter collections, thinking they would sell better. However, I chose to go my own way, even if it meant creating pieces that others might not commonly wear. The only way to satisfy a large number of people is to follow the paths of brands like Zara or Shein. Yet, even by doing that, it's impossible to please everybody. I believe in using fashion as a means of self-expression. By doing so, I can connect with like-minded individuals who resonate with my creativity and style.
How would you describe fashion in Togo?
Unfortunately, the number of international Togolese designers is quite limited. In fact, there are probably only four or five designers in Togo, including myself. The new generation of designers is striving to gain recognition and establish their presence. They attempt to incorporate modern elements while still embracing wax fabrics, also known as Ankara fabrics. These prints were introduced to West and Central Africans by the Dutch in the 19th century and have since become an integral part of our fashion landscape. I would describe fashion in Togo as a harmonious fusion between couture and traditional craftsmanship. We are still very colorful. Our love for colors runs deep, and I don't think anyone can take that away from us.
What was the greatest lesson you ever received as the Founder and Designer of Nyny Ryke brand?
As the designer and founder of this ethical chic brand, it has given me a more flexible mindset and a sense of humility. Although I wasn't lacking in humility before, growing up in Europe often leads us to take things for granted. We become impatient and seek quick results, without considering the origins or production processes of the things we desire. However, working with people from diverse cultures and backgrounds has taught me invaluable lessons and brought me back down to earth. I realized that I was losing touch with my roots, and it was time to reconnect.
My experiences involved collaborating with African, Italian, and English individuals, as well as dealing with a company based in Dubai. It was a lot to manage, requiring an understanding of different cultures and the ability to work simultaneously with all of them. I faced many failures, not in terms of my product, but in communication and building relationships. When I first went to Africa, I naively expected it to be like Europe, but I was met with laughter. Socially, culturally, and even in terms of fashion, it was a different world. Despite studying fashion in Italy for many years and holding a master's degree, I realized that I needed to be taught by Africa itself. The African way of fashion was unique, with different techniques for cutting patterns and fabrics that I didn't initially understand. I realized that I had limited knowledge about my own country. I had to reset everything to zero and start anew. I needed to learn about my culture first so that I could effectively communicate with my own people and understand their needs.
What and who inspires you?
I find inspiration in two individuals who have had a significant impact on the fashion industry. The first is Laduma Ngxokolo, the founder of MAXHOSA, a South African knitwear brand that celebrates the traditional aesthetics of the Xhosa people. The second person is Issey Miyake, a Japanese designer known for his use of technology-driven textiles.
These individuals embody what I aspire to be both in fashion and in life. They possess a clear vision of what they want to achieve and are unapologetically unique. Their journeys serve as a reminder that with determination and a clear sense of purpose, it is possible to transcend limitations and achieve greatness. They fuel my ambition to pursue my own path and embrace my authenticity, originality, and my diverse cultural background. After all, I am a fusion of different cultures.
If you could describe Nyny Ryke brand in 3 words, what would they be?
Authenticity, timeless, fashionable.
How do you want people to feel when they wear your clothes?
I want people to feel unique, empowered, and comfortable in their own skin. My goal is to create pieces that celebrate your distinctive style, give you confidence, and allow you to express yourself authentically. I love hearing stories from my customers, who tell me that whenever they wear my clothes, they never return home without receiving a compliment. By choosing my garments, you are making a statement that you don't want to blend into the crowd. You embrace your individuality without any shame, whether it's being unique, being noticed, or receiving compliments.
In Togo, we do not follow transient trends or seasonal fads. Our clothes are designed to last a decade, aging gracefully. I wanted to bring this enduring philosophy to my collections, offering people garments that serve them for years to come and highlight their uniqueness, regardless of passing trends.
What is your favorite material and why?
My favorite materials are silk and kente, particularly my own innovative variations called 'Kentelig' and 'Elasken', a stretchable version achieved by incorporating elastic threads.
Silk has always held a special place in my heart due to its unique qualities, such as its natural fiber with a soft texture, lustrous appearance, and temperature-regulating properties. Additionally, kente has a rich history and strong cultural significance.
What is the meaning of your designs?
African textiles often showcase traditional symbols and motifs, with a significant focus on their spiritual and social significance. A classic illustration is the kente cloth, once reserved exclusively for the regal attire of the kings and queens of the Ashanti kingdom in Ghana. Nowadays, certain designs remain exclusive to royalty, but kente has also become a fashionable item accessible to others. This textile holds immense prestige and value, not just due to its handmade nature, but because of the captivating stories woven into its fabric. Each color and pattern carries unique meanings.
In my collections, I aim to respectfully break away from traditional interpretations and introduce a touch of modernity. While preserving the essence of African patterns, I strive to strike a balance, allowing the connection to African heritage without making it too obvious or clichéd.
What can the fashion industry do to be more sustainable?
To me, sustainability isn't solely about using fabrics made from sustainable or innovative materials like pineapple fibers. It goes beyond that. True sustainability begins with how you produce your products and how you treat the people involved in the process, ensuring ethical practices throughout, including their working conditions and the length of time they spend stitching or dyeing the clothes. Even if the brand is labeled as sustainable, it's essential to question who produces the clothes and under what conditions.
We also need to shift our focus to producing less and ensuring that items are durable, emphasizing quality over quantity. In Africa, people tend to buy clothes and wear them extensively for a long time. I grew up with that mentality. Clothing lasts until it becomes worn out, or it no longer fits due to growth (and is handed down). Interestingly, many of these garments are designed with extra space, allowing for adjustments in case one becomes taller or experiences slight changes in body shape. This approach maximizes utility and minimizes waste.
