Meet the fashion designer Lassana Samassa of Mali
Whispers of ancient tales, the rhythm of ancestral drums, and the allure of distant lands all come alive in the seams of Lassana Samassa's creations. Born under the vast skies of Mali and later nurtured in the cultural mosaic of France, Lassana's work is a homage to the ancestral. His patterns draw inspiration from a myriad of cultures, capturing the intricate beauty of Mali, the mesmerizing art of the Ndebele, the profound mystique of Egypt, and the spirited expressions of the Haida and Mursi people.
“People from all corners of the globe are both similar and unique. Even though time might set us apart, we all come from the same origin. We are one and we are all interconnected by the universe. This is evident when you notice similar patterns and decorations in various regions worldwide. Whether it is a design in India or Russia, one can spot resemblances. Living in Paris, I've come to cherish this rich cultural diversity. It constantly reminds me that, as humans, we are truly united”.
Lassana moved to France when he was seven. He pursued fine arts and later, fashion design, at Formamod. While the production of his printed fabric bodysuits takes place in Paris, the embroidery for his bags is done in Mali. Mali is renowned for its handmade bogolan (or bògòlanfini) fabric. Locals say it embodies the earth, forests, rivers, and sun of Mali. This sentiment is grounded in reality, as the dyeing process for this cotton cloth utilizes plant extracts, fermented mud from the Niger river, and the tropical sun and water. The resulting fabric boasts intricate designs, each rich with symbolism. Recognizable patterns include crosses, chevrons, triangles, squares, dots, lines, stars, zigzags, and diamond shapes, each carrying its own distinct meaning.
Such an approach is close to Lassana. His collections also convey a unique message for women, into whose lives he wants to infuse more self-belief. Interestingly, the ideas for his designs arise in unusual circumstances.
"My spirituality guides me. I often listen to my intuition and pay close attention to my feelings with every creation."
Please take a moment to learn more about the fashion designer Lassana Samassa and his beautiful brand iMmOrteL.
What is your definition of fashion?
Fashion is an integral part of our daily lives, our 'mode de vie'. Not a day passes without us wondering what to wear. Every moment of our day has its own fashion. We have specific clothing for exercising, another set for work, and even distinct attire for sleeping. To me, fashion is channeled through clothing, serving as an armor that aids us in navigating the varied situations of everyday life.
How would you describe fashion in Mali?
In Mali, fashion is deeply rooted in tailoring, known as 'sur mesure' in French. Here, garments are crafted by hand, not by machines. Every woman boasts her own tailor or dressmaker, ensuring each piece of clothing is custom-made and personalized. The concept of ready-to-wear is foreign to Malian fashion culture; both homemakers and businesswomen alike wear tailor-made attire. As a testament to this tradition, there are many small sewing workshops in urban areas. The Malian people are creative, with a profound appreciation for nature. This connection is manifest in the vibrant colors and intricate patterns of their fabrics.
What was the greatest lesson you ever received as the Founder and Designer of iMmOrteL?
My mentor Roberto Fabris, former editor-in-chief of Elle magazine in Japan and head of design and Right-hand man at Mr. Emanuel Ungaro, once told me: "If you can reconcile luxury with humanitarianism, you will have provided an answer to this world." So, I learned to have a vision that luxury should align with humanitarianism, where creativity and innovation are always guided by deep respect for tradition and heritage. Balancing the avant-garde with the ancestral creates a powerful and meaningful blend that resonates deeply with individuals.
What and who inspires you?
My inspirations come from the powerful women in my life, especially my mother and my sisters. Additionally, the work of the legendary designer Azzedine Alaïa has played a significant role in shaping my creative vision. His ability to elevate the female body through his designs still captivates me today. Another inspiring figure is the artist and comics illustrator Enki Bilal, who often explores utopian and futuristic worlds intertwined with figures from ancient Egypt.
Why is traditional craftsmanship important to you?
Traditional craftsmanship is important to me because it preserves cultural heritage, fosters a sense of connection to one's roots, and ensures the continuity of techniques passed down through generations. It adds authenticity, depth, and uniqueness to designs, creating pieces that carry stories and values beyond their aesthetic appeal.
Are there any legends or stories about traditional designs from Mali?
Mali has a rich oral tradition, replete with legends and tales that often find reflection in its traditional designs. One such story is the Epic of Sundiata Keita, which chronicles the heroics of Mali's founder. Elements from this epic are sometimes depicted on fabrics like bogolan. Emperor Mansa Musa, often referred to as the richest man in history, was known to adorn himself with bogolan fabrics enhanced with gold-threaded embroidery. Some patterns are used to represent historical events, while others are used to symbolize protection, fertility or marriage. For example during Malian weddings, women drape their heads with a handwoven, cotton fabric dyed with natural indigo to veil their faces.
If you could describe iMmOrteL brand in 3 words, what would they be?
The 3 words that reflect iMmOrteL's vision are: Ancestral, Avant-garde, and Powerful.
How do you want women to feel when they wear your designs?
When a woman wears an iMmOrteL design, I want her to feel strong, empowered, and connected to her 'Amazon' essence. I want her to know she can handle any challenge that comes her way, reminding her of her inner superwoman. My designs aim to give her a sense of royalty and pride, awakening her best self.
What is your favorite fabric and why?
My primary fabric is bazin, a cherished family legacy. My father was among the pioneering importers of bazin in France during the 1990s, a time when this fabric was a rare find. Today, I'm reimagining bazin, transitioning it from its ceremonial context to contemporary ready-to-wear collections. Another fabric I work with and “paint on” - because for me, fabric is like a canvas - is stretch jersey. Its malleability and comfort make it feel like a second skin, ensuring that women can move with ease and confidence. It's vital to me that the jersey I use is recycled.
What can the fashion industry do to be more sustainable?
I firmly believe that the handcrafted, custom tailoring as practiced in Mali offers a compelling alternative. The ethos is, 'I have my garment made because I genuinely need it, not out of mere consumption.' This approach promotes on-demand production, steering clear of overconsumption. Educating consumers about the environmental and social implications of their purchases can further inspire more conscious decisions.
How do you think fashion will change in the future?
Fashion plays an integral role in our lives. With growing awareness of climate issues, contemporary fashion is shifting towards vegan principles. Animal fur is being replaced by alternatives crafted from plant fibers. The future of fashion will unquestionably be shaped by technology. Virtual reality has the potential to revolutionize the shopping experience, and sustainable practices will become even more foundational to the industry. As previously noted, personalization and bespoke tailoring will likely gain prominence as consumers search for unique pieces that resonate with their values and individuality. At iMmOrteL, our mission is to contribute to this transformative journey. We aim to enhance people's well-being, empowering them to better themselves daily, find happiness, and achieve harmony with both the world around them and their authentic selves, deeply rooted in their heritage.
