Meet the Sámi designer Sara Björne
Sápmi, the region of the Sámi, stretches over four countries: Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia. There, the indigenous Sámi developed a sophisticated terminology to communicate more effectively about nature during the long northern winter. Research shows that there are 300 words describing snow types, its density, depth, or layers. The vocabulary for reindeer behaviour, appearance, personality, and other features is even wider! The lives of the Sámi people have revolved around reindeers for centuries, and the Sámi have turned reindeer herding into an important tradition. They relied on reindeers for food, clothing, and tools.
According to Sámi folklore, there are underground spirits known as "Háldi", and they take care of their reindeers just like the Sámi. When you see a herd of the white reindeers, you know that they belong to the Háldi. Legend has it that if you manage to throw a knife over a white reindeer herd, then all the reindeers will be yours.
Historically, the spirituality of the Sámi was rich in shamanic beliefs and practises rooted in a harmonious relationship with nature. Joik, their often lyricless or a cappella traditional singing, was used in healing rituals. The Sámi joik when they want to honor a person, an animal, or nature. They joik to express the full spectrum of emotions, from sadness to happiness. This practice has become a part of their everyday life.
Besides developing a unique form of singing and having a complex vocabulary for nature, the Sámi manifest their identity by wearing extraordinary clothing. The Sámi chose to present themselves very stylishly even though the harsh winter climate would not appear to be encouraging for such a choice. Sámi often wear vibrant contrasts of red and blue, which when combined with the shining white crystalline landscape, look like a scene from a fairytale.
The Sámi flag
The red part of the circle symbolises the sun, the blue part the moon. The colours red, green, blue, and yellow reflect the Sámi national costume. Green symbolises nature, red fire, blue water, and yellow the sun.
One amazing Sámi clothing and jewelry designer, Sara Björne, actively supports her culture as an artist and freelance journalist working in Sámi media. For many years, she has been certified by the Sameslöjdstiftelsen Sámi Duodji, which is awarded to craftsmen and artisans who possess genuine knowledge and skill in Sámi handicrafts.
As a designer, Sara received more recognition when the Swedish Minister of Culture and Democracy Alice Bah Kuhnke wore her redesigned dress at the Nobel Banquet in 2014.
Sara was born and raised in the Arctic village of Abisko, in the Swedish part of Sápmi. Her current studio is located in Kiruna, also within the Arctic Circle.
“I grew up in the Sámi tradition. I have learned how to sew Sámi crafts early in life. This sewing tradition is very complex and it takes many years to master this technique. Besides practicing sewing at home. I studied designing and pattern making and I am also an educated textile teacher. These two words - tradition, which I know from my mother, and modernity, that I have discovered in my education - inspired me to create something new.”
Sewing the traditional costume requires following strict rules in terms of technique and materials. Sara feels more fulfilled when she is able to work creatively, especially in her own space. The idea of incorporating Sámi designs into her clothing allowed her to bring her culture to a broader audience.
A modern "gákti" lace dress that Sara made for Ida Labba Persson, when she got married in the TV programme "Vårt stora samiska bröllop".
A modern dress that Sara made for herself. It was inspired by traditional Sámi clothing from her region.
A redesign of a mink fur coat, where Sara has added Sámi designs, inspired by her customer Lina Edin’s
“gákti”.
A dress that Sara made for a professor in Dance Education, Cecilia Björklund Dahlgren, worn at her professor installation.
A redesign of a dress made for the Swedish Minister of Culture and Democracy Alice Bah Kuhnke, worn at the Nobel Banquet 2014.
The interview below is conducted as part of my exploration and research work on indigenous designs and clothing.
What is your definition of fashion?
I don’t have an answer for this question because I’m not affected by fashion. Fashion, and especially fast fashion, is about creating trends and consuming. It is such a waste and I don’t want to be a part of it. I chose to be more gentle with nature and this will always be the core of my work. I definitely prefer the word “designing” rather than fashion. My idea of being a designer is making clothing that is both timeless and lasting. It means using high quality fabrics, classic cuts, and simple styling so that garments can be worn season after season. I dedicate 2-3 months to designing each dress. This is the time I need to create something special which I know will stay with you into old age.
What was the biggest lesson about designing you have ever received?
I started my company, Sara Björne Studio, in 2010 and I very quickly gained new clients. A couple of years ago, I realized that I no longer felt fulfilled and I started thinking why. I had a big list of orders and I still didn’t feel satisfied. I realized that the problem was that some of the clients had their own vision of the clothing and they expected from me to simply change my designs and follow their instructions. I had to put a lot of energy into explaining that these changes will destroy the pattern or the shape of the clothing. It affected my creativity so much that I decided that I won’t take a job if I don’t have creative freedom. I'm aware that consumers want to decide and have the influence on the whole process, but I really want to work with people who trust my skills. I have learned that if I want to reach my greatest potential, I have to feel free.
What and who inspires you as a designer?
I’m very inspired by my culture and the knowledge that I got from my mother. I also like to observe couture dresses to learn more about the shape of clothing. This is one of the most interesting parts of designing for me. When I’m sewing, I always look at the person’s body and play with the shapes to make a perfect cut. One of my favorite Swedish couture designers is Ida Lanto. Her designs are very feminine and made of beautiful lace and embroideries.
If you could describe Sámi clothing in 3 words, what would they be?
Warm, colorful, practical.
Why are traditional designs important for Sámi people?
Traditional designs have always played a vital role in Sámi culture. The clothing and its different parts help us to recognize the home region of the wearer. It speaks more if you know the meaning of each ornament. The colors, decorations, and even the width of the garment differ between areas, but also between different families. This knowledge is very complex and would need its own chapter of detailed analysis.
There are some political aspects that influenced our traditional costume. For instance, the Sámi from the Karesuando area have now spread 300km south from Kareusando into Härjedalen. This is because many families from the Karesuando area were forcibly relocated south in the beginning of 20th century.
Another major transformation in Sámi clothing was related to spirituality. The Sámi people were forced to change their religion, which unfortunately made its mark on Sámi clothing and ornamentation as well.
Time has also changed Sámi clothing; once, Sámi outfits were mainly practical. We believed that it should first suit our needs and serve a concrete purpose rather than being just an artistic, decorative object. Nowadays, full outfits are kept for special occasions like weddings. On a daily basis, we wear only some pieces like a hat or shoes because they are warm and perfectly suited for the weather. In the past the basic materials came from the furs of reindeers and other animals, but now the costume is more commonly made from wool, cotton, or silk. However, when we sew in leather we still follow our tradition and use sinews instead of thread.
*gákti or kolt is a traditional garment worn by the Sámi in northern areas of Sweden, Norway, Finland and the Kola Peninsula in Russia.
What is the meaning of Sámi designs?
Besides learning about our roots and different locations, there are some decorations which we use as amulets. We always believed that silver jewellery was charged with magic and symbolism. For example we use silverballs (komsekule) on babies' cradles, to protect the babies from evil.
Do you have any stories about Sámi clothing?
My mother used to tell me that my grandmother always dressed up for the reindeers. A couple times of the year we gather the reindeers in a fence. To honor them, she presented herself in her most festive clothing. This beautiful tradition shows how strong and unique the connection the Sámi people have with these animals is.
What is your favorite textile?
My favorite textile is wool because it is natural and warm. This is one of the traditional materials of the Sámi people.
What can the fashion industry do to be more sustainable?
I think the key point is high-quality fabrics. Mass-production of cheap clothing encourages people to keep buying more. The quality of these garments is so low that after one wash it immediately looks worn out. The more you buy, the more you waste and pollute the environment. The change should come from the global companies which have the biggest influence on consumer behaviour. If we want to have clothes that last longer, we have to invest in better fabrics.