Jewelry | A Symbol of Identity and Status of Konyak

Presently, people might think that jewelry is only used for fashion and adornment. But in some areas, jewelry remains the subject of many beliefs, remaining a strong and positive part of many tribal heritages and cultures.

Nagaland is a state covered with mountains and forests. It is in the northeast part of India and is famous for its natural produce and rich biodiversity. Efforts by both the government and communities continue to protect Nagaland’s pristine ecosystem.

Although the name of the place may sound idyllic, the reality of Nagaland is very strict. Valid rules define this place. Nonetheless, I am pleased to present his majesty, the king of the Konyak village of Hongphoi, with his guard of brave warriors.

Headhunting

Members of Konyak are considered to be one of the bravest tribes of Naga. They are famous headhunters, for whom collecting the skulls of their enemies is a way of gaining prestige. One of the highest honors among the Koynak is to be naomei, that is, to be a brave and accomplished headhunter.

In 1960 the Indian government banned these practices, but warriors’ fame and prestige preceding the ban lasts to the present day. The Konyak tribe believes in the existence of three souls. Yaha, the first soul, wanders through the land of the dead. The second soul, Mio, is attached to the skull. The third, Hiba, is a ghost who flutters around the house. Human skulls have a special meaning for the Konyak, who perceive that its main power is fertility. When the enemy’s head was brought to the village and placed in a sacred place, its soul spread all around the habitat bringing wealth to everyone. It is an important symbol for the Konyak tribe, and skull imagery can be found literally everywhere. Huts are decorated with animal antlers, elephant tusks, and the bones of hornbills. The purpose of these artifacts is to protect people from evil. The total number of these symbols indicates the social status of the owner.

Tattooing

Tattoos are likewise a very important element of the Konyak tribe’s identity. They are part of one’s rite of passage and warriors’ achievements. Human skin is used as a canvas where every head of an enemy is tallied. The Konyak tribe is divided into two groups: the Thendu and the Thenkoh. They vary from each other with the way they practice tattooing and how they present themselves. The Thendu tattoo their faces, while the Thenkoh tattoo their chests. Women of Thenkoh tattoo their legs, while Thendu women tattoo their faces as well. In both tribes women are tattooed twice in their life. First, when they achieve sexual maturity, and second, shortly before marriage. Men differ between the two tribes in regard to hair style. Men of the Thenkoh keep their hair short, while the Thendu prefer long hair tied in the knot on the back of their head.

In the days before Konyak tattooing was banned by the government, the Konyak only allowed women of the Ang clan to create tattoos (the clan of the most powerful Thendu chiefs). While men’s tattoos displayed headhunting and warfare specialties, women’s tattoos indicated age or clan membership. The facial mark was tattooed with dotted curved lines with the pattern inspired by mithun horns. The tattoos often included animal motifs, showing how important particular animals were to individuals bearing their tattoos. Because of the importance of the water buffalo to the Konyak, water buffaloes were often depicted on tattoos. Other animals frequently featured in tattoos, particularly lizards and birds.

Meaning of Ornamentation

In Naga communities, there are multiple ornaments developed around ritual headhunting. They are made of cowries, conch shells, and glass beadiwngs. Jewelry was considered a badge for the people with a powerful status in the tribe. Jewelry was also a big motivation for people to improve the honor and wellbeing of their tribe. The type of jewelry also highlighted the stages of life, from birth to death, and accompanied people during rites of passage. As jewelry is so important to Konyak culture, it represents standardized symbolisms and spiritual beliefs. These often arose from the natural environment, and such symbols often represent fertility and health. The main symbols of these types of people were made from animal teeth, claws, and metals. These types of jewelry were only allowed to the headhunters and feast-givers; normal members of the tribe were severely restricted from wearing them.

Materials of Ornamentation

One of the most common materials the Naga people use is the Shark conch shell. This ornament is available in a range of sizes and shapes. Women from different regions of Konyak differentiate themselves by the necklaces made from this material. This conch can be found in the sea and has been traded from the coastal regions. They are colored red and are considered very powerful, because this color is associated with power and abundance. According to their beliefs, it retained the alchemy of water, which correlates to fertility.

For women, jewelry and beads are the only fortune and are symbolically significant. Other types of beads include carnelian and turquoise beads, which were worn below the knee by Konyak warriors as a sign of membership in the prestigious Ang clan. The most expensive bead used by the Konyak is deo-mani, a glassy material resembling stone, imported from Nepal. Nagas do not have any technology related to glass, so this bead is considered the foreign along with some other unknown beads. Seed beads are also one of the most used forms of jewelry by the Konyak, strung into multiple strands and then suspended into large hanks and can be worn as a necklace fastened with a bone. Brass pendants are only for the warriors and headhunters,and they commission craftsmen in Assam and Manipur for their professionalism.

Women's Jewelry And Clothing

Konyak women use glass beads in massive quantities, along with other ornaments. The colors and materials of the beads bear different meanings, with some combinations being reserved solely for the Ang clan. Around their necks, they wear several chains of black beads made of wild banana seeds, and green, red, and yellow Indo-Pacific glass beads. Around their hips, they wear wide belts made of similar beads. On their wrists, they wear a number of metal bangles or conch shells, and heavy brass armlets just above their elbows. Sometimes they wear whole conches with their columellas cut away to make bangles. In their ears, Konyak women wear a bunch of orange feathers of small birds, tied together with an orchid stalk attached to a thin bamboo stick.

The girls of Konyak love to wear lead rings in their ears. At the time of their marriage, these lead rings are replaced by brass ones. Also, shoulder bags are very popular among them, and they were made in such a pattern that they nominate the place from where the person is.

In the past, members of the Konyak tribe wore very minimal clothes. Women wore mini skirts only 25 centimeters long. Today petticoat skirts are longer and have different patterns, which indicate who is from the royal family and who is not.

There are also special costumes for celebrations and festivals. Colors are significant for the Konyak tribes. Black means life struggles, and white zigzags mean peace. Yellow symbolizes hunger, and red stripes represent headhunting and bloodshed. However, the most important element of an outfit is still the jewelry.

Men's Jewelry And Clothing

In the headhunting days, male ornamentations were rich and possessed many social customs. The headhunters were considered the most respected members of a tribe, so they were given many badges and allowed to wear any ornament.

Men also wear jewelry. They have plugs in their ears in the shape of horns and brass necklaces with miniature pictures of human heads. They also wear bands made of beads under their knees and pendants with tiger teeth. Every element of their stylization reflects their warrior nature. Konyak men wear a tight red or black belt around their waist, the black color was from the ash and tree sap, and the red color was from the madder plant. Hats likewise are very important to create a unique image of the men. They are decorated with animal horns, fur, and skins. They bring power, talk about courage, and demonstrate the beauty of animals.

The warrior necklace

Men of Konyak also wear circlets just below their knees and black rings below the knee as a popular leg ornament. They tied their hair with a pin and in the form of a bun. The pins used in the bun formation depend on the number of enemies killed by the owner.

They also wear monkey heads suspended from the neck to indicate the number of heads hunted by a warrior. The monkey heads or wooden skulls are used for decorating the house and serve as a symbol of the bravery of the owner.

Gabriela BarnatJuly 7, 2022Konyak, jewelry, indigenous, india